Blog Post

First Aid Basics for Pet Owners 

  • By Jason Albertson, DVM
  • 06 Sep, 2018

Presented by Jason Albertson DVM

Introduction:

What would you do if:

...your dog was hit by a car?

...your cat had a bleeding injury from a fight?

...your dog fell down the stairs and started limping?

...your cat was overheating on a hot summer day?

To avoid the feelings of panic that may accompany these situations, the following steps are recommended to better prepare you for a pet medical emergency. Always remember that any first aid administered to your pet should be followed by immediate veterinary care. First aid care is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet's life until it receives veterinary treatment.


A.       Common Conditions Requiring First Aid


1. Can’t Breathe

Difficulty breathing is also called dyspnea and is a medical emergency. Respiratory distress is recognized by increased effort to breathe; noisy or squeaky breathing; cyanosis (a bluish tinge to the lips and mucous membranes); and an inability to inhale or exhale. In cats, breathing with the mouth open (panting like a dog) is a sign of severe distress and should be evaluated by a veterinarian right away.

It is imperative to get the pet examined to determine the cause. Diagnostic tests (such as x-rays, blood tests and ultrasound) will be needed, but the pet must be stabilized (often with oxygen or by removing fluid from the chest) before they can withstand the rigors of testing if respiratory distress is severe.

 

What to Do

Brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds (e.g., English bulldog, Pekingese, and Pug) warrant a special mention. Because of the short nose, the soft palate can interfere with breathing. On hot days or in hot environmental conditions these dogs try to cool off by panting vigorously, and the soft palate interferes even more. This cycle continues until the dog is severely dyspneic and overheated. Cooling these dogs is imperative. Move them to a cool environment and seek immediate veterinary care. This syndrome is manageable only by protecting these breeds from heat or by surgically reconstructing the soft palate.

  • Keep the pet and yourself calm.
  • If the pet has choked on a foreign body, perform the Heimlich maneuver and/or a finger sweep (see Choking).
  • Perform rescue breathing if necessary (see rescue breathing in the choking article).
  • If the pet is overheated, moisten the feet and ears with cool (not cold) water to promote heat exchange.
  • Seek veterinary assistance as soon as possible.

 

What NOT to Do

  • Do not upset the pet.
  • Do not perform rescue breathing on a conscious pet.
  • Do not give anything by mouth.
  • Dyspepsia, or difficulty breathing, is a serious sign. Causes include:
    • Congestive heart failure
    • Asthma
    • Cancer
    • Fluid buildup in or around the lungs
    • Bronchitis
    • Pneumonia
    • Laryngeal paralysis (a condition usually seen in older pets in which they lose ability to open and close their airway)
    • Obstruction of the trachea
    • …and many other conditions.

 

Choking is interference with breathing caused by foreign material in, or compression on, the trachea (windpipe). Thankfully, true choking is a very rare occurrence. Many pet owners will seek veterinary care because they believe their pet has something stuck in its throat, and this is rarely the case. It is far more likely that your pet has something mild and infectious such as tracheobronchitis (commonly called kennel cough) and is coughing rather than choking.

 

Frequently, coughing is confused with choking. Both cause the pet to forcefully exhale. With choking, the pet has difficulty inhaling. When coughing, the pet can inhale almost normally. Be careful to distinguish the two: attempting to give first aid to a pet who is merely coughing can cause injury.

 

If you are in any doubt, have your pet evaluated by a veterinarian. To evaluate the throat, most pets will require sedation and some will require evaluation with a fiber-optic endoscope or X-rays to look for foreign material.

 

If the Pet is Unconscious

Perform a Finger Sweep. Open your pet's mouth and do a finger sweep by placing your finger along the inside of the mouth, sliding it down toward the center of the throat over the base of the tongue, and gently "sweeping" toward the center to remove any foreign material. Warning: there is a structure deep in the throat (the Adam's apple) that feels like a smooth bone. Do not attempt to pull it out!

 

Begin Rescue Breathing. Rescue breathing is performed by covering the pet’s nose with your mouth and forcefully blowing your breath into the lungs. In cats and small dogs, you must hold the corners of the mouth tightly closed while you force the air in. In larger dogs, the dog’s tongue should be pulled forward and the mouth and lips held shut using both hands cupped around the muzzle. Force air into the lungs until you see the chest expand. Take your mouth away when the chest has fully expended. The lungs will deflate without help. Air should be forced into the lungs until you see the chest expand. If air is not entering the lungs, slap the chest wall firmly or perform the Heimlich maneuver by putting the pet on his back, placing your hands over the abdomen near the bottom of his rib cage, and gently but firmly thrusting toward the spine. Perform a finger sweep and begin rescue breathing. Repeat until the foreign body is clear and the lungs can be inflated. Transport to the veterinarian.

 

If the Pet is Conscious

Stay calm and try to keep the pet calm. If the pet is overheated, cool them with cold water applied to their extremities (ears and feet) and belly, and transport them to the nearest veterinarian. Perform a finger sweep only if it will not excite the pet. Do not perform a finger sweep if you believe your pet will bite you.


2. Bleeding  

Pets often suffer blood loss as a result of trauma or poisoning. Some bleeding is visible, and is a result of a cut or laceration, while internal bleeding occurs inside the body (such as in the chest or abdomen) and is not be visible to the naked eye. If bleeding is severe or continuous, the pet may lose enough blood to cause shock; loss of as little as 2 teaspoons per pound of body weight may cause shock, which doctors usually detect as a high heart rate and low blood pressure. Emergencies may arise that require you to control the bleeding, even if it is just during transportation to the veterinary facility. Pet owners should know how to safely stop hemorrhage (bleeding) if their pet is injured.

Techniques to Stop External Bleeding 

The following techniques are listed in order of preference. The first rule when dealing with an injured pet is to avoid injury to yourself, so take appropriate precautions (such as the use of a muzzle) to avoid being bitten. For all techniques below, seek veterinary attention immediately after stopping the bleeding, or on the way to the veterinary hospital.

Direct Pressure
Gently press a compress (a pad of clean cloth, feminine sanitary product or gauze) over the bleeding area, so it can absorb the blood and allow it to clot. Do not disturb blood clots after they have formed. If blood soaks through, do not remove the pad; simply add additional layers of cloth and continue the direct pressure more evenly. The compress can be bound in place using loosely applied bandage material, which frees the hands of the first provider for other emergency actions. If you don’t have a compress, you can use a bare hand or finger.

Direct pressure on a wound is the most preferable way to stop bleeding.

Elevation
If a severely bleeding wound is on the foot or leg, gently elevate the leg so that the wound is above the level of the heart.

Elevation uses the force of gravity to help reduce blood pressure in the injured area, slowing the bleeding. Elevation is most effective in larger animals with longer limbs where greater distances from the wound to the heart are possible. Direct pressure with compresses should also be maintained to maximize the benefits of elevation.

Elevation of a limb combined with direct pressure is an effective way to stop bleeding.

Pressure on the Supplying Artery
If external bleeding continues after you have used direct pressure and elevation, use your finger or thumb to place pressure over the main artery to the wound. Apply pressure to the femoral artery in the groin (on the inside of the thigh) for severe bleeding of a rear leg; to the brachial artery in the inside part of the upper front leg for bleeding of a front leg; or to the caudal artery at the base of the tail if the wound is on the tail. Continue application of direct pressure. Seek veterinary attention immediately.

Tourniquet
Use of a tourniquet is potentially dangerous and it should be used only for a severe, life-threatening hemorrhage in a limb (leg or tail) not expected to be saved. If you see blood spurting or pumping from a wound, which is a rare occurrence, consider the use of a tourniquet. Use a wide (2-inch or more) piece of cloth and wrap it around the limb twice and tie it into a knot. Then tie a short stick or similar object into the knot as well. Twist the stick to tighten the tourniquet until the bleeding stops. Secure the stick in place with another piece of cloth and write down the time it was applied. Every 20 minutes loosen the tourniquet for 15 to 20 seconds. Remember this is potentially dangerous and can often result in disability or amputation.

A tourniquet should only be used as a last-resort, life-saving measure!

Internal Bleeding 
Internal bleeding is a life-threatening condition, but it is not obvious like external bleeding. In internal bleeding, blood pools in the stomach or chest but does not result in blood in the stool or bleeding from the rectum. There are, however, some external signs of internal bleeding:

  • The pet is pale (check the gums).
  • The pet is cool on the legs, ears, or tail.
  • The pet may cough up blood.
  • The pet is unusually subdued.

If you see any of these signs, immediately transport your pet to a veterinary facility for professional help. Most cases of internal bleeding will require intensive therapy in a veterinary hospital. Remember: internal bleeding is not visible on the outside.


3. Fractures

A fracture refers to a break or crack in a bone. There are several different types of fractures, and each type has different complications and methods of repair. Your veterinarian can help you decide how best to fix the fracture and if referral to a specialist is in your pet’s best interest. Although splinting will allow a small number of fractures to heal, most will require surgery to ensure the best outcome. Toy breeds of dogs (such as Pomeranians, rat terriers and similar small, long-legged dogs) always require surgery on foreleg fractures due to the high failure rate of splinting.

 

Fracture Types

Closed fracture: Fractures in which there is no related external wound.

Open (formerly known as compound) fracture: Fractures associated directly with open wounds (the bone may or may not be visible through the wound).

Dislocation: An injury to the connective tissues holding a joint in position that results in displacement of a bone at the joint.

Sprain: An injury to a joint, ligament, or tendon in the region of a joint. It involves partial tearing or stretching of these structures without dislocation or fracture.

 

Other types of orthopedic injuries can involve torn ligaments, particularly in the knee. Many athletic, large breed dogs will tear the cranial cruciate ligament in their knee, which results in a sudden loss of use of the leg, and joint pain and swelling in the knee. Surgical stabilization is the best means to repair this injury.

 

What to Do

  • Before treatment, precautions should be taken to prevent biting injury to the first aid provider. Muzzle your pet.
  • Stop bleeding with direct pressure.
  • Open fractures should be covered with a sterile gauze dressing if possible. If this is not available, use a clean cloth or feminine pad applied over the opening and bone.
  • If possible, the pet should be immobilized on a large board for transport.
  • If the pet can still use three legs, support the rear legs with a towel under the abdomen (with the ends held together above the back) used as a sling.
  • Discuss treatment options with your vet, including referral to an orthopedic specialist.
  • Splinting the fracture at home without pain medication greatly increases the risk of being bitten, and may actually make the fracture worse. Some fractures, such as thigh or femur fractures, cannot be splinted. The best advice is to keep the pet quiet and calm, protect yourself and head directly to a veterinary hospital.


What NOT to Do

  • Do not flush the wound with saline or water as this only risks driving contaminants deeper into the wound.
  • Never attempt to set or reduce a fracture or try to push a protruding bone back into position.
  • Do not give any over-the-counter or prescription medications to your pet unless directed to do so by a veterinarian. A fracture, dislocation or severe sprain may be suspected when the animal suddenly appears lame on a leg, or picks up a leg and won't use it. These may also be suspected following any major fall or blunt injury. Obvious findings of a bone sticking out from (protruding) a wound are rare. What is more common is the unusual angle or deformation of the fractured area, and swelling. Accurate diagnosis requires the use of x-rays, which usually must be taken with sedation or anesthesia to get the most accurate results.


4. Lacerations/Open wounds

A wound is any break in the continuity of the tissues of the body, either external or internal. Injured pets can act in unusual and unpredictable ways. When dealing with an injured pet, remember to protect yourself from being bitten by using a muzzle or heavy towel as needed to gently restrain your pet.

 

Many wounds will require pain control and sedation or general anesthesia for cleaning and closure once your pet has been evaluated by a veterinarian. Some wounds, like those inflicted by another animal, can become worse before they get better as dead tissue is removed by the body’s immune system. This process can take many days or weeks and may require repeated bandaging, repeated surgeries or skin grafting for severe wounds.

 

What to Do

Deep Wounds (generally those that are bleeding or have exposed muscle, fat, or bone)

  • Stop the bleeding using direct pressure.
  • Do not attempt to clean the wound unless instructed to do so by a veterinarian.
  • Protect the wound from contamination by applying a water or saline-soaked compress. Do not remove it until instructed to do so by a veterinarian.
  • Immobilize the wound to prevent further damage.
  • Provide shock care if necessary.
  • Obtain professional veterinary care. Transport the animal with the affected area facing up.

Superficial Wounds (wounds that do not penetrate all the way through the skin)

  • Stop the bleeding. Clean and bandage the wound as instructed in bandaging.

 

What NOT to Do

  • Do not apply materials (other than those mentioned) to the wound unless specifically instructed to by your veterinarian.
  • Do not look under the bandage to see if the bleeding has stopped.

 

The tape should be in contact with the skin (hair) at the bandage margins, anchoring the bandage so it will not slip. The outer layer of a bandage should be applied smoothly and snugly, but not tight enough to cut off blood circulation.

 

5. Heatstroke

Body temperature may be elevated because of an infection (fever), but it may also increase because of hot and/or humid conditions outside. An increased body temperature caused by environmental conditions is commonly referred to as hyperthermia, heatstroke, and heat prostration.

 

Hypothermia may be a life-threatening condition, and does require immediate treatment. A dog’s normal body temperature is 101.5°F plus or minus 1 degree Fahrenheit, and any time the body temperature is higher than 105°F, a true emergency exists. Heatstroke generally occurs in hot summer weather when dogs are left with inadequate ventilation in hot vehicles. However, heatstroke may also occur in other conditions, including:

  • When an animal is left outdoors in hot/humid conditions without adequate shade.
  • When exercised in hot/humid weather.
  • When left in a car on a relatively cool (70°F) day; a recent study from Stanford University Medical Center found the temperature within a vehicle may increase by an average of 40 degrees Fahrenheit within one (!) hour regardless of outside temperature.
  • Other predisposing factors may be obesity and/or diseases affecting a pet’s airway. Keep in mind that prolonged seizures, eclampsia (milk fever), poisonings, and many other conditions may cause hyperthermia. Also, brachycephalic (short-nosed) breeds (Pekingese, Pug, Lhasa apso, Boston terrier, etc.) may suffer from ineffectual panter syndrome that results in an increased body temperature that may be fatal.

Initially the pet appears distressed, and will pant excessively and become restless. As the hyperthermia progresses, the pet may drool large amounts of saliva from the nose and/or mouth. The pet may become unsteady on his feet. You may notice the gums turning blue/purple or bright red in color, which is due to inadequate oxygen.

 

What to Do

  • Remove your pet from the environment where the hyperthermia occurred.
  • Move your pet to shaded and cool environment, and direct a fan on her.
  • If possible, determine rectal temperature and record it.
  • Begin to cool the body by placing cool, wet towels over the back of the neck, in the armpits, and in the groin region. You may also wet the ear flaps and paws with cool water. Directing a fan on these wetted areas will help to speed evaporative cooling. Transport to the closest veterinary facility immediately.

 

What NOT to Do

  • Do not overcool the pet.
  • Most pets with hyperthermia have body temperatures greater than 105°F, and a reasonable goal of cooling is to reduce your pet’s body temperature to 102.5-103°F while transporting her to the closest veterinary facility.
  • Do not attempt to force water into your pet’s mouth, but you may have fresh cool water ready to offer should your pet be alert and show an interest in drinking.
  • Do not leave your pet unattended for any length of time.
  • Rapidly cooling the pet is extremely important. Cool (not cold!) tap water is suitable.

 

Severe hyperthermia is a disease that affects nearly every system in the body. Simply lowering the body temperature fails to address the potentially catastrophic events that often accompany this disorder. A pet suffering from hyperthermia should be seen by a veterinarian as soon as possible.

 

6. Transporting an Injured Pet

The first aid provider must not only identify and treat injury or illness, but must also safely transport the patient to the veterinary facility for further treatment. Improper technique when transporting a patient can result in further injury or complications, and risks a bite injury to the person transporting the injured pet. Although this article cannot fully prepare you for all specific examples, it can provide the following general recommendations.

Handle the Pet as Little as Possible

Try to make the pet comfortable by encouraging him to lie down and stay. Smaller dogs and cats can most effectively be transported in commercially available carriers or in a cardboard box with a lid.

Handle the Pet Gently

Rough handling may cause further internal bleeding, more damage to the soft tissues around a fracture, and many other complications.

Lie the Pet on its Side if Possible 

If the pet seems to resent this or has more difficulty breathing on its side, it may indicate the pet has an injury to the chest or lungs. In this case, it is better to leave the pet in a comfortable position of his choosing.

Minimize Movement

If possible, gently tie or tape the pet to a flat surface such as a large board or piece of plywood. This is imperative when handling an unconscious patient or the patient with a suspected back injury to ensure that they do not thrash about – this could potentially make any internal or spinal injuries worse.

Do Not Put Pressure on the Stomach

This is most important for the pet who is having difficulty breathing, has been vomiting, or has pain in the abdomen.

Use a Backboard 

If the pet seems paralyzed or unable to get up, a spinal injury is suspect and the pet must be firmly immobilized to prevent further damage to the nerves. Get a firm, flat support (an ironing board, a piece of plywood, a collapsed cardboard box, a table leaf -- think of one in your house before you need it). Grasp the skin over the back of the neck and over the small of the back and gently slide the pet on to the support. Try to keep the back and neck straight. Gently tie or tape the pet to the support. As stated above, if this causes the pet to struggle, you will need to find another method of transport, such as a large blanket to use as a stretcher.

Position the Head

If the pet is unconscious, position the head in normal alignment with the body. It should not flex abnormally downward nor extend excessively upward. Improper flexing or extending can cause decreased blood drainage from the brain and cause serious damage. If the pet has vomited or appears likely to vomit, put the head down below the level of the heart. This will allow the vomitus to run out of the mouth and not down into the windpipe and the lungs. Be aware that pets with severe head injuries are likely to vomit, even while they are unconscious.

Cover the Patient with a Blanket

Covering an injured pet has a calming effect. More importantly, it prevents heat loss. A blanket can also be used as a transport device. In this case, the animal can be gently lifted with the blanket. Gently slide the pet into the center of the blanket. Roll the edges of the blanket to provide a better grip. Gently lift the blanket and the pet into the transport vehicle. This is usually a two-person procedure.

Know the Route to the Veterinary Facility and Call Ahead

Get precise directions and drive directly to the facility. This will result in the fastest delivery of the pet for professional care. Call them to let them know you are on the way.

Drive Carefully!

Driving out of control or in a panic may result in delays (while the officer writes a ticket) or injuries if you are involved in an accident.

Emergency situations require prompt and safe transport of the sick or injured pet. If done properly, this will give your pet a better chance for recovery. If delayed or done carelessly, the outcome may be less favorable. As with most first aid principles, prior planning and awareness of proper techniques will prevent many problems.


First Aid: A Final Note

Most veterinary hospitals are not open around the clock. Some may provide emergency service (meaning someone will meet you there if you call first). If you do not call first, you may arrive to find that a doctor is not available. To avoid wasting time in a crisis, ask your veterinarian ahead of time about emergency services available, and learn the shortest route to your veterinarian and to a 24-hour emergency facility, if one is available in your area. 

By Dr. Jason Albertson DVM 23 Apr, 2021
   Children must be taught how to approach, handle, and play with dogs. Children should be taught to avoid making contact around the eyes, ears, and head. Hugging and lifting are not well-tolerated by some dogs.
   Children are likely to be bitten on the face or head. Boys ages 5-9 years old are at highest risk, and most  dog bites in young children are by the family dog, in contexts of resource guarding, or benign interactions such as hugging or petting. 
   The dog should be physically confined away from the child so that an adult can supervise each approach and ensure that the dog threatens or shows avoidance while resting or being handled. 
   Never punish or force affection on a dog that resists. Children should have some degree of positive control over the pet. Children must learn rules about pet. Children must learn rules about other pets, especially that the child must never touch another family's pet or give it food unless an adult gives permission.
   Dogs on a leach, by food, by toys, sleeping, tied down, or running loose should never be approached. All family members must also follow these rules as a model for the child's behavior. 
   Children must be taught to recognize and avoid aggressive postures (growling, loud barking, hair standing on end) and fearful behaviors (trembling, crouching, ears back, tail tucked) and to avoid these animals. If the child is approached by a dog that is acting aggressively, the child should stand very still and silent, hold the arms against the body, and avoid eye contact. If the child is on the ground or knocked down, he or she should curl into a tight ball, cover the ears with fists, and remain still and quiet until the animal moves far away. 
By Dr. Jason Albertson 16 Nov, 2020

Health Benefits of Pet Ownership

The company of a pet relaxes and entertains people, but the benefits of pet ownership go beyond simple joy. Studies have shown that keeping a pet improves the health and well-being of the people in the household. During stressful times, the comfort of a pet protects against depression and loneliness. Animal companions ward off depression and loneliness among people with AIDS and Alzheimer’s disease. Stressful situations have less of an impact on elderly pet owners and visit their physician less frequently.

Pets allow their owners to feel needed as nurturers, while also nurturing their owner. An animal’s unconditional affection often increases the owner’s ability to cope with personal setbacks and depression and can reduce loneliness. Individuals who live “alone” with a pet are actually part of a family; they can look forward to being greeted and recognized when they walk in the door. Caring for a pet can make its owner feel needed and provide reasons for living and staying healthy.

Pets motivate people to be more active and social. Pets are conversation-starters, help to make new acquaintances. Walking the dog provides not only physical exercise but also an opportunity to interact with humans living and more vulnerable to depression. Dog-walking and being outdoors where social contact is possible are healthful effects of dog ownership.

The comfort, social interaction, and motivation provided by pets improve cardiovascular health and lower blood pressure. Physical and verbal interaction can lower blood pressure. One study of hypertensive patients showed those who were given pets handled stressful tasks better than those who relied on blood pressure medication alone. Research shows people are more likely to survive the year after a heart attack if they have both a companion dog and a human social support network. Animal companionship is commonly linked to lower death rates and better long-term health.

By Jason Albertson, DVM 11 Nov, 2019
 Your pet's visit to your veterinarian, whether it be for routine services or to address an illness, is a well-scripted event, with numerous issues to be addressed.
 The wellness visit should include a thorough "nose-to-tail" physical examination, vaccinations appropriate for the lifestyle of the pet, and important lab work such as a blood count and chemistry profile to assess internal organ function, and urinalysis to check for urinary tract disease. A nutrition assessment should include discussion of the best life-stage diet, type of treats that are OK, possible need for therapeutic diets for various pet health conditions, as well as conversation about various supplements that would benefit health. 
 Fecal examination to detect intestinal parasites should be performed at least annually, even if regular preventive medication is administered as many pet parasites can also affect humans. Heartworm testing annually and evaluation of current prevention strategies should also occur. 
 Preventive dental health care is often over-looked by pet owners. A discussion of the benefits of dental cleaning/other dental work, as well as preventive home care should take place.
 Your veterinarian should ask if there are behavior concerns, too, as the primary reason for pets being relinquished to animal shelters is for behavior problems. Topics may include use of treats as rewards to desirable behavior, leash training, basic obedience training, use of trainers and/or structured training classes.
 Other services that are often provided during the routine visit might include toenail trimming, anal sac expression, discussion of the importance of regular grooming, boarding services, and needed preventive services such as spaying and neutering. To help make this visit as time efficient as possible, arrive for your appointment a few minutes early. Jot down questions to be addressed. Often those questions can be discussed during the exam.
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 "Otits externa" is a fancy term for inflammation or infection of your pet's ear canals. Here are some things that folks believe about recurring ear problems...and the facts. You might think...
 1. "I can use the same ear medication that worked for my pet's last infection." This isn't always true. Infections can be caused by a variety of bacteria and yeast. Your veterinarian selects medications based on identification of the specific organisms present in the ear canal, and these organisms can change from time to time.
 2. "Plucking the hair out of my dog's ear will prevent infections." The fact that routine plucking of ear canal hair can actually predispose to infection in some cases, as it causes the skin in the ears to become inflamed.
 3. "My dog caught an ear infection from another animal." Not true! Ear infections are almost always secondary to an underlying cause of inflammation, such as seasonal or food allergy. Inflammation alters the environment and microscopic anatomy in the ear canal which allows the usual resident bacteria or fungus to proliferate, resulting in infection.
 4. "My dog licks, scratches, or chews because he is bored or is just cleaning himself." The truth is that these signs are most often associated with an itchy, allergic dog. What does this have to do with otitis externa? Allergies are the most common underlying cause for ear infections. When your veterinarian checks your dog's skin, the ears should get checked for signs of problems, too.
 5. "My dog's ear infection is cured, so he'll never get another infection." This is seldom true, especially if allergies are the culprit.
 Your veterinarian needs your help to keep watch over the ears and may request that you clean them regularly to prevent inflammation and infection. 
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 As I write this article, a large batch of summer thunderstorm is rolling through our area.
 My own dogs are clearly worried and anxious. This is a very common occurrence for dogs owners in Kansas during severe weather and fireworks season.
 If your dog is a nervous wreck during a thunderstorm or around Independence Day, here are some tips to make your dog a bit more comfortable.
 1. Keep your dog in an inner room (without windows, if possible) in the basement or a closet. This will minimize sounds coming in from the outside. If your dog feels safe in his or her crate, place a heavy blanket or comforter over the enclosure to muffle loud sounds.
 2. Switch on the TV or a radio and play calming music. This may help cover up scary noises.
 3. Contact your veterinarian for a prescription of anti-anxiety medication. Drugs such as diazepam, alprazolam and dexmedetomidine can be very effective anxiety reducers. To be most effective, these drugs should be administered 1-2 hours ahead of, and a few hours after, the impending noise barrage. If these medications need to be given several days in a row, your veterinarian should instruct you on how to gradually step down the dose to prevent symptoms of drug withdrawal. 
 If possible, behavior modification techniques that gradually desensitize a fearful dog to scary noises can be employed. These exercises should be overseen by a veterinarian well-versed in the use of behavior medications or by a veterinary behavior specialist.
 These techniques expose the dog to low levels of the particular scary noise, the noise while rewarding calm behavior with treats. Addressing your dog's fears early is key to effectively managing this potentially debilitating condition. 
 Have a safe Independence Day!
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 Chronic kidney disease (CKD) is a common diagnosis in dogs and cats of all ages, and is six times more likely to occur in cats than dogs.
 Kidney failure occurs when the kidneys are no longer able to perform their vital functions of waste removal, electrolyte regulation and water balance. Signs of CKD are seldom recognized until a large portion of the kidney is no longer functional. Therefore, the initiating of kidney damage is seldom determined.
 CKD is not due merely to the aging process. Unmanaged CKD causes premature death. Consequently, early diagnosis of kidney damage is essential if treatment is to be meaningful. 
 Common signs of CKD include increases in water intake and urination, decreased appetite, weight-loss, vomiting and lethargy. Blood tests can show increases in renaly-excreted waste products, anemia, low proteins and electrolyte imbalances.
 A new test, SDMA, has been developed which shows signs of elevation much earlier in the course of CKD than other test parameters, and is helpful in revealing kidney damage at earlier stages. Urine tests often reveal inability to recycle body water and proteins being abnormally excreted into the urine. Blood and urine tests should be performed starting when your pet is apparently healthy, and repeated at least annually to detect disease early, and so that negative trends in the lab values can be identified prior to the onset of signs of disease. 
 Once diagnosed, your veterinarian may recommend other blood tests to identify underlying disease, blood pressure testing, radiographs, and/or ultra-sound examination of the kidneys. CKD is managed primarily with prescription diets that limit protein and phosphorus intake, blood pressure medications and certain dietary supplements.
 While CKD cannot be cured, it can be effectively managed for a time. Have your veterinarian perform lab testing early. 
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 Last month we discussed heartworm disease. Flea infestations deserve equal attention. 
 Fleas are external parasites that spend their entire adult life on the host. Female fleas lay up to 50 eggs per day, which fall off into hosts' environments. 
 Within a few days a larva, which resembles a maggot, emerges from the egg and begins scurrying around seeking organic debris to eat, and cover, such as grass, mulch, fabric, furniture, carpet or crevices in the flooring.
 Within a few days to weeks, the flea maggot spins a silk cocoon and transforms itself into the adult flea. The time from egg to adult ranges from six weeks to six months. 
 The pre-emerged adult flea senses a potential host nearby, emerges from its cocoon, hops aboard and begins feeding on the host's blood. Within a few days, the female flea begins laying eggs, and the cycle continues. Because the immature fleas can overwinter in the house, the flea season is year-round. Not only do fleas deprive their host of blood, they can also transmit diseases such as feline infectious anemia (a blood parasite) and plague.
 In years past, flea control using flea sprays, collars, shampoos, dips and powders was complicated and largely ineffective. Topical flea control agents such as Frontline Plus and Advantage represented a huge step in that these products were safe, reasonably effective in killing fleas and provided residual activity. After about 25 years of use, these products are not as effective, as flea populations are developing resistance. Systemic medications, such as Nexgard, Simparica and Credelio are monthly tablets that achieve 100 percent flea control.
 Recently, Seresto collars were introduced. Seresto collars control fleas and ticks for 8 months. These products are prescription items and are available through your veterinarian. 
 The time to begin flea control is now. 
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 Wichitans are looking forward to the approaching warm weather (as am I!). 
 With warmer weather, detestable creatures like mosquitoes become active and multiply. Mosquitoes are the means of canine and feline heartworm transmission.
A bite from an affected mosquito injects a heartworm larva under the skin. This larva enters the bloodstream, goes through several lifestage changes and within seven months attaches to the pulmonary artery (main artery between the heart and lungs). In canine heartworm disease, the lining of the pulmonary artery thickens around the attachment site over time. This results in right-sided heart failure and eventual death of the infected dog.
 The disease process in cats causes asthma-like disease that is equally as deadly. Heartworm treatment in dogs is lengthy and expensive. 
 The drug that kills heartworms contains arsenic, which can cause a number of unpleasant side-effects. A better option to heartworm disease treatment is simply preventing the infection in the first place. A blood test is performed to insure the disease is not present. Once a negative test is confirmed, your veterinarian will recommend a prevention program. In most cases, a product that is administered monthly is prescribed. Heartworm tablets or chews eliminate the early stages of heartworm prior to their maturation.
 Consistent treatment year-round is very important to insure your dog or cat does not contract heartworm disease. Missed doses can result in infection.
 Recently, an injectable heartworm prevention has become available that prevents canine heartworm infusion for six months. It is important that your veterinarian repeat this treatment consistently. Feline heartworm is preventable with a monthly chewable or a monthly topical that prevents flea infestations as well. 
 Heartworm is deadly - prevention is key.  
By Jason Alberston, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 The anatomy and physiology of the oral cavity of dogs and cats is essentially like humans, so it should be no surprise that our pets suffer from dental conditions the same as people do.
 Lack of adequate home care will result in development of periodontal disease. Bacteria colonize the space between the teeth and gums and produce plaque that coats the tooth surface. Over time, plaque mineralizes into tartar. 
 Bacteria and their byproducts, along with pet's immune -response causes gum and supporting bone recession away from the tooth root. This ultimately results in tooth mobility and eventual loss.
 Bacteria make their way into the bloodstream, causing inflammation in the vital organs such as kidneys, liver, lungs and heart valves. Pus pockets at the root tips are very painful. Your pet can be very uncomfortable, feel ill, and will have a decreased life-span due to dental disease. 
 Periodontal disease is treated by thoroughly cleaning the space between teeth and gums using both hands in ultrasonic instruments. Radiographs are obtained to view the root structures below the gumline. 
 Significant bone loss or abscess formation can be treated with advanced procedures such as periodontal surgery, root canal therapy, and a specialist can restore fractured teeth with stainless steel crowns. Advanced periodontal disease is routinely encountered and, unfortunately, diseased teeth often require extraction.
 The procedures can require significant time to perform, general and local anesthesia, antibiotics and pain relievers. Quality, skilled dental work is expensive, too. 
 Teeth cleaning prior to development can often save teeth, so you don't wait to schedule dentistry if your veterinarian expresses concern with the condition of your pet's teeth. Good oral hygiene, such as teeth brushing, special diets, and medicated chews can help to prevent disease. 
 With the help of your vet you should develop a good dental preventive health program. 
By Jason Albertson, DVM 25 Oct, 2019
 Urinary tract disease is commonly encountered in feline veterinary practice. 
 Feline lower urinary tract disease (FLUTD) describes the following group of signs, regardless of the cause: bloody urine, straining to urinate, urinating in the improper locations, urinary blockage, and painful urination. A cat may suffer from one or all of these signs. Bladder stones, infection, and urinary tumors may be responsible for FLUTD.
 However, a majority of cases of cats under 5 years of age do not have an identifiable underlying cause. Cats over the age of 10 years often have infection and/or some degree of kidney disease. Feline Idiopathic Cystitis (FIC) is bladder inflammation with no readily identifiable cause which represents a large percentage of younger cats with urinary tract disease.
 Common tests that may be ordered by your veterinarian include urinalysis, bladder radiographs or ultrasonography, urine culture, and blood tests to assess for concurrent dieease. The current theory among experts is that stress plays a significant role in the development and recurrence of FIC episodes. 
 There is no agreed-upon therapy for cats with FIC, although pain medications, stress-relieving pheromones, anti-anxiety drugs, nutritional supplements, high-moisture canned food, and therapeutic diets are often recommended to relieve the discomfort of an inflamed bladder. Many experts advocate environmental enrichment to reduce stress.
 The truth is that a majority of cases will resolve without treatment within 5-7 days. Owners of cats suffering from FIC can become frustrated by their cat's lack of response to treatment and/or frequent recurrence of signs. It may be of some comfort to understand that this condition is rarely life-threatening unless accompanied by urethral blockage.
 This is characterized by the inability to pass urine despite intense straining to urinate, and occurs primarily in neutered male cats. This is am emergency.
 More information is available from your veterinarian and www.veterinarypartner.com  (feline idiopathic cystitis) 
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